Bergstrom Jewelers Pearls
A
Pearl is unique. It is the only gem created by a living creature.
A perfect, graceful gift from the depths of the sea.
A
cultured pearl is a pearl formed by an oyster, composed of concentric
layers of a crystalline substance called nacre deposited around an irritant
placed in the oyster's body by man.
Natural
pearls are formed by deposits of nacre around an irritant which accidently
lodges within the body of an oyster.
Anything
alse which resembles a pearl but has a surface created by a manufacturing
process is an imitation or simulated pearl - and must be labeled as such!
The value
of a pearl comes from the unique ability of the crystalline nacre to absorb,
refract and reflect light, imparting a distinctive quality, termed orient,
to natural and cultured pearls.
Orient is
the deep inner glow and shimmering irridescent characteristic of sea-grown
pearls. The deeper the lustre and irridescence, the more precious the
pearl.
Size contributes
to the price of a pearl. As it is more difficult for oysters to grow large
pearls, they are scarcer. But two pearls of different sizes may be valued
the same if the smaller pearl is superior in orient to the larger.
Shape determines
value, too. The more symmetrical the shape, the more valuable. Examples
of symmetrical pearls are: round, pear shape, tear shape, oval. Pearls
of irregular and asymmetrical shape are termed baroque. Oysters grow pearls
in many different shapes, from perfect spheres to long flat angel wing
pearls.
Surface perfection
contributes to value. The surface of a perfect pearl appears satiny smooth.
But when viewed closely, natural or cultured pearls may appear to have
irregular surfaces which do not detract from value, as do disfiguring
blemishes. You need no magnifier to detect blemishes; when present, they
are readily apparent to the naked eye.
Rarity increases
the value of any jewel. Cultured pearls themselves are relatively rare,
as they can only be grown in limited areas of the world's oceans and take
years to grow. A perfect pair of pearls are very rare, because nature
makes few pearls exactly alike in orient, size, shape and color.
Types
of pearls
Akoya
- The most familiar type of cultured pearl, grown in true pearl oysters
off the coasts of Japan. Akoya pearls are known for their lovely orient
and warm color. They rarely grow more than 9 mm in size.
South Sea
- Large cultured pearls (10 mm and larger) grown in large oysters off
the coasts of Australia. Usually silvery in appearance, and sometimes
not as lustrous as fine Akoya pearls, South Sea pearls are rare and costly.
Burmese -
Large cultured pearls (10 mm and larger) grown in large oysters off the
coasts of Burma. Warmer in color tone than South Sea cultured pearls,
rare and costly.
Mabe - Large
hemispherical cultured pearls grown against the inside shells of oysters
instead of within the body. Less expensive than regular round cultured
pearls and, because of their hemispherical shape, used mounted in such
jewelry as earrings, rings and brooches.
Biwa - A
fresh water pearl cultivated in a mollusk only in Japan's Lake Biwa. Smoother
and more lustrous than fresh water pearls from China.
Fresh Water
- Pearls cultivated in mollusks, not oysters, found in fresh water lakes
and rivers. Fresh water pearls generally are elongated in shape and have
a milky translucent appearance. Their wide range of interesting shapes
and colors make up in fashion appeal for their relatively low value.
Keshi - Tiny
pearls, some a little bigger than a grain of sand, which form naturally
in many cultured pearl oysters.
When choosing
cultured pearls
Look
for lustre and orient in the shadow area of the pearl, not in the area
upon which the light is shining. Clear color tones, not dull or muddy.
Cracks, chips or disfiguring blemishes.
In addition,
all pearls in a strand should blend well together, particularly in regard
to lustre, orient and color. Roll a strand of pearls along a flat surface
to determine if all pearls are strung through their exact centers. All
pearls should roll evenly, without an eccentric wobble.
Buy the best
pearls you can afford, then choose the clasp. A decorative jeweled clasp
can always be purchased later.
Selecting necklaces
Choose
a cultured pearl necklace, too, for its effect on your appearance and
personality. Long necklaces are slinky and sexy. Short necklaces can be
demure or sophisticated. Dog collars enhance a long neck. Longer strands
slenderize and appear to elongate the neck. For fair skinned women, roseate
hued pearls are most flattering. Cream and gold color pearls set off darker
skin tones best. Here is a guide to necklace lengths and terminology:
Choker -
14" to 15" in length. Should nestle around the base of the neck.
Princess
- 18" in length. Halfway between choker and matinee length.
Matinee -
22" to 23" in length. Should fall to the top of the cleavage.
Opera - 30"
to 36" in length. Should fall to the breastbone.
Sautoir or
Rope - Any pearl necklace longer than opera length
Dog Collar
- Multiple strands of pearls fitting closely around the neck.
Bib - Multiple
strands of pearls, each shorter than the one below, nested together in
one necklace.
Graduated
- A necklace composed of pearls which taper downward in size from large
pearls in the center.
Uniform -
A necklace which appears to be composed entirely of pearls of the same
size, though there generally is a slight difference in size between the
center and the end pearls for a more proportionate look.
Let your
expert jeweler customize your necklace so that its proportions and color
tones are exactly matched to yours.
Your cultured pearl wardrobe
Should
consist of matching pearl necklace, earrings and bracelet. Add to it with
a ring, a variety of clasps, brooches and a tiara or hairpiece. A long
strand of cultured pearls, with invisible clasps at several points along
its length, is very versatile. It can be shaped into many different styles,
such as a dog collar, a choker, or a bib.
Cultured pearl care
Cultured
Pearls are precious jewels and should be treated as such.
Don't toss
them carelessly into a purse or jewel box where they can become scratched
by hard metal edges or harder stones.
Don't expose
them to acid-based hair sprays, cosmetics, or perfumes.
Don't clean
them with chemicals or abrasives.
Do treat
pearls gently. Place them in a chamois bag or wrap them in tissue when
putting them away.
Do put on
pearls after applying cosmetics, hair sprays and perfume.
Do wash your
pearls with mild soap and water after taking them off. This will remove
all traces of perfume, cosmetics or hair spray from the pearls.
Do bring
your pearls back to your jeweler for restringing once a year. Cosmetics
and ordinary wear weaken and stretch the nylon threads on which the pearls
are strung. It's better to be safe than sorry.
Do have pearls
strung with a knot between each pearl. This will prevent loss of pearls
if the string should break.
Your expert
jeweler
Trained to select, match and individualize cultured pearl jewelry
for you, he has ready access to the world's finest pearl resources, and
chooses those with investment jewelry quality. He can help you replace,
add, or assemble pearls to enhance your pearl jewelry collection for greater
investment and fashion value.

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